Goodbye, fashion month. The weeks devoted to the spring-summer 2023 designs come to an end with Paris Fashion Week. Following the discovery of the trends that will rule the upcoming hot season, including underwear that transforms into outwear, crumpled textures, and hearts all over, designers, stylists, buyers, visitors, and the entire fashion circus depart the city. The themes of current events—war, elections, and, most prominently, the passing of Queen Elizabeth II—converged on these peculiar catwalks, which JW Anderson and Richard Quinn honored.
Those who didn’t select current affairs opted to get their inspiration from a wide range of subjects. Saint Laurent chose Martha Graham and Grace Jones as its muses; Rick Owens presented a modern Theda Bara, a famous silent film diva; Stella McCartney decorated her clothes with illustrations by Yoshitomo Nara; anthuriums and touches of surrealism blossomed at Loewe; and at Balenciaga, bag-making took center stage. Chanel evoked and actualized the atmosphere of Last Year in Marienbad (the film’s costumes were designed Last but not least, Bella Hadid doused in spray while dressing as Shalom Harlow for Alexander McQueen’s “No. 13” fashion presentation was captured by Coperni (SS 1999).