The Miu Miu SS23 collection debuts in the hypostyle hall of the Palais d’Iéna, in a setting designed by studio Amo and artist Shuang. As in previous seasons, Miuccia Prada continues to reread and dissect the conventions of Y2K fashion while playing around with sensuality, utilitarianism, and bourgeois codes. We see inch-long sweaters, low-waisted miniskirts with frayed hems, pleated skirts, overlapping plush minidresses, blouses, tops so cropped they become simple brassieres, and tailored jackets and coats that alternate technical fabric, leather, and washed denim on the runway, worn by a cast that includes FKA Twigs, Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, Miranda July, and Ethel Cain. The pockets that enliven each garment, resembling a kind of saddlebag or fanny pack, are the genuine must-have accessory between overlays, bling-bling embellishments, and transparencies: from pleated skirts to minis, from leather jackets to denim longuettes. While hybrid footwear, which combines the design of supple, knee-high leather boots with the toe of a flip-flop, stands out on the feet.

Making fashion at this period is difficult. I wanted to investigate the reason behind and purpose of fashion for this collection. its relevance to contemporary culture and society. Beyond its practical use, fashion can also serve as decoration or a means of attraction. But it’s crucial that fashion is functional. Although I do not oppose luxury, I do oppose ostentation.

In a message, Miuccia Prada discusses an idea that seems to be summarised in the show’s final design. FKA Twigs walks the runway wearing a micro skirt decorated with maxi pockets and a blue ribbed sweater from which the collar and cuffs of a white shirt come out while sporting a soap-and-water face and her hair pulled back in braids.She is stunning, but in her simple but ultra-modern costume, she resembles one of the numerous schoolgirls we see on TikTok. She is an example of elegance that, with the help of Miu Miu, manages to disturb even the most traditional of looks. Miu Miu is Miuccia Prada’s answer to the world around us, a space of reflection on the real where divertissement and utilitarianism combine to create today’s clothing, if “fashion is a means of transferring a reaction to reality into tangible form.”