Reshaping Fashion and Empowering Women through Adorable Aesthetics
In the realm of TikTok’s trending audios, one eloquently asserts, “When a young lady’s chamber bears the disarray, it invokes the essence of Sofia Coppola’s cinematic portrayal, reminiscent of ‘hell is a teenage girl,’ akin to Lindsay Lohan’s iconic presence in a 2000s film. It exudes an indie charm, ignites a sense of allure.”
The annals of 2023 will etch a chapter in history as the epoch of “The Revenge of Femininity,” a resounding declaration of women’s right to express themselves. Amidst the fashion runways and silver screens, the triumphant resurgence of all things pink, adorned with bows, pearls, and lip gloss, has heralded a transformative movement.
Within this movement, epitomized by luminous lace details and the innocent allure of frilly bows, we find esteemed brands like Blumarine, Simone Rocha, Heaven by Marc Jacobs, and Molly Goddard. Here, the essence of adorableness supersedes the pursuit of seduction. Remarkably, the vessel that most eloquently conveys this aesthetic shift happens to be footwear, embodied by the elegance of pumps and mary janes, as well as the casual chic of sneakers.
Fashion weeks now witness the proliferation of sneakers that can be aptly described as hyper-feminine. However, the enchanting “cute-ification” of footwear finds its roots in the innovative minds of independent designers—a delightful, pink-hued rebellion conceived by and for women. Their mission: to imbue a sense of romance into a world often dominated by masculinity, to reclaim and reshape the imagery of the second sex, which has endured ridicule for far too long.
Caterina Mongillo, a visionary sneaker designer renowned for her daring customizations of limited edition New Balance, adidas, and Puma sneakers, candidly reveals, “I frequently concealed my aesthetic inclinations because they remained largely unaccepted within the rigid confines of the sneaker industry.” Her journey towards embracing a more feminine aesthetic in this male-dominated realm was a hard-fought battle, initially met with skepticism.
Mongillo, an industry veteran who contributed her expertise as a researcher and project manager at adidas, has since embarked on a freelance consultancy path. She reflects on the remarkable transformation of hyper-feminine sneakers, now prominently gracing the catwalks, attributing this evolution to the fervent subcultures that championed these designs long before the fashion establishment took notice.
Notably, these captivating creations once faced reluctance from male sneaker enthusiasts, but the tide has shifted. Increasingly, men are captivated by the allure of these endearing designs. Mongillo proudly asserts, “I craft these shoes not only for women but also for discerning gentlemen who embrace streetwear and eclectic fashion.”
Her journey exemplifies the evolving landscape of sneaker culture, where notions of gender and aesthetics are transcending boundaries.
While online searches may suggest that cute-ified sneakers have only recently captured mainstream fashion’s attention, their origins trace back to the vibrant streets of Japan’s Harajuku district in the 1980s and 1990s. In the Western fashion landscape, the luminaries who first embraced this style on the catwalks were Simone Rocha, unveiling her SS21 ballet shoes with an ultra-chunky flair, and Rei Kawakubo for FW21, in a groundbreaking collaboration with Nike for Comme des Garçons.
The momentum continued with fashion trailblazers like Sandy Liang, whose use of enchanting pinks and her signature flower logo paved the way for hyper-femininity within the gorpcore movement this spring. Collaborations with Salomon and Kiko Kostadinov, under the artistic direction of Laura and Deanna Fanning, have seamlessly intertwined grunge aesthetics with graceful nuances, reflecting the sensibilities of Gen Z. Kostadinov’s multi-year partnership with Asics, poised to evolve into a standalone brand, speaks volumes of this artistic fusion.
Following Salomon’s collaboration with Liang last spring, the hyper-feminine sneaker style regained prominence under Asics’ tutelage during the summer. The Japanese brand unveiled its second collaboration with Danish designer Cecilie Bahnesen, a stunning reinterpretation of the GT-2160 adorned with silver and black accents, embellished mesh details adding to its allure.
Not to be outdone, Ganni’s second collaboration with New Balance graced the catwalks last month during Copenhagen Fashion Week FW23. With laces bedazzled in sequins, white and yellow sneakers shimmered elegantly with each step, a testament to New Balance’s unexpected journey from its Massachusetts origins and dadcore roots toward a remarkably feminine aesthetic. This transformation exemplifies the dynamic evolution of fashion’s most beloved footwear.
From the realm of balletcore to the latest enthralling collaboration between Ganni and New Balance, Caterina Mongillo possesses an intimate knowledge of the intricate history of femininity within the tapestry of fashion. She speaks eloquently about her creative process, stating, “I’m always attuned to the prevailing social cues.” With keen insight, Mongillo elucidates the surge of hyper-feminine sneakers, emphasizing that while many brands now dabble in pearls and embroidered lace, the true genesis of this shimmering phenomenon lies within subcultures.
Harkening back to 2020, she traces the trajectory of the hyper-femininity trend from balletcore to cottagecore, elucidating how pink bows journeyed from these movements to the hallowed ateliers, carried on the winds of TikTok’s most influential aesthetics. “Brands such as Prada and Miu Miu have indeed contributed to the acceptance of femininity in the industry,” she acknowledges, “but the primary wellspring of inspiration has always been the subcultures, the aesthetics, and the independent designers, luminaries like Mila Sullivan, Agata Panucci, and Benulus. They are crafting an online community, and, in my view, that community is the true heart of this movement, eclipsing even the most prominent brand names.”
Today, Mongillo finds herself customizing up to ten pairs of sneakers each month, with orders pouring in from every corner of the globe, from the vibrant streets of Brazil to the bustling cities of Korea, from the heartland of the United States to the eclectic alleys of Japan. At first glance, her creations, adorned with glistening pearls, satin ruffles reminiscent of whipped cream, shimmering glitter, and innocent little bows, might appear as a passing trend, a fleeting aesthetic destined for ephemeral admiration.
However, to truly comprehend the profound resonance of hyper-feminine sneakers, one must observe the enchanting spell they cast, particularly on those who encounter them for the first time. They may not be a resplendent diamond necklace or a pair of iconic Manolo Blahniks, yet these charming designs conjure within us the same sense of wonder that graces a child’s face when she unwraps a long-desired gift. Much like the captivating allure of Lindsey Lohan’s Y2K film or the cocoon-like, yet hauntingly authentic cinematography of Sofia Coppola, designers like Simone Rocha, Sandy Liang, Laura, and Deanna Fanning infuse pink hues into their creations, but it’s the wistful undercurrent of nostalgia that truly beguiles us all.











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