‘Make America Great Again,’ would say a man with a blond toupee and an orange face, and they succeeded—at least as far as fashion is concerned—after years of lackluster schedules and collections that were no match for their European alter egos.The Big Apple is indeed great once again. From historically Milanese brands like Marni and Fendi that set out to conquer the continent, to the fresh faces representing a constantly evolving fashion system, passing through exceptional events like a church defilé and the return in style of old glories of the past that we thought lost forever (yes, We are talking about Linda Evangelista), But before FOMO catches you off guard, here are five events that made NYFW the true season-opening event.
The sunset of Marni
Marni succeeded where nature itself would fail by setting the sun in the middle of the night in a gloomy tunnel just below the Manhattan Bridge, to the notes of Dev Hynes performed by the Brooklyn String Orchestra (which featured Risso himself on cello) and a packed front row that included Madonna, Kendall Jenner, and Doja Cat. According to Risso, the sunset is not a phenomenon of the sun, which happens on the horizon, but rather a phenomenon of the body, which sets the sky on fire. In a palette that faithfully reproduces all the tones that light takes on as day falls, clothing in hallucinogenic and bright colors, DIY mohair, daring cut-outs, and psychedelic designs are merged with a deft play on layering. The knitwear that has made Risso’s Marni popular across the world is given a more edgy direction with rips, sharp hems, and degradé combinations. Transparencies, velvet, and satin are also introduced.
The Mirror Palais Churchcore
Mirror Palais stood out among the up-and-coming designers who energized the congested New York scene by picking a “heavenly” backdrop for its fashion presentation. For the brand’s SS23 show, which was staged in the Church of the Ascension and was themed around contrasts (concealment and revelation, sacred and profane), models walked down the aisle in wraparound dresses, sheer fabrics, corsets, miniskirts, and hair pulled back into a nun’s bonnet-like headdress. As a result of his upbringing in Brazil, Marcelo Gaia likely purposely explores the Old World’s religious allusions in a distinctively vulgar manner. A reflection that is completed by the ethereal Wolfie Cindy wearing a transparent wedding gown with a silk veil and an obvious thong.
Peter Do’s pirates
If we had to describe Peter Do’s SS23 collection in one word, “deconstruction” would probably come to mind: cut-out blazers to reverse shirts, strolling coats with contrasting stitching, loose-fitting poncho sweaters, transparent vests, skirts, and sashes, monumental bags, delicate tie-dye, silky textures, baggy trousers, and platform boots. The final style, which is a rare departure from Peter Do’s contempt for fame, is the garb of a contemporary eastern indie privateer, also donned by k-pop star Jeno and influencer Brenda Hashtag.
Collina Strada and Vitelli knitwear
Collina Strada presented GOT MILKWEED?, a riot of vibrant colors, bare skin, maximalist combinations, and tops that by some miracle of gravity seemed to cling to the models’ nipples like they were coat hangers, in a former cemetery in Brooklyn, an Edenic location now used as a monarch butterfly reserve. The choice of a cast that is truly inclusive and the emphasis on sustainability throughout the entire production process set apart the company created by Hillary Taymoure and made famous under the creative guidance of Charlie Engman.To achieve the latter goal, the company has partnered with an Italian icon, the knitwear company Vitelli. Vitelli actually created for Collina Strada Lace and Warp, two “100% regenerated” fabrics that have taken the forms of lace and macramé and will also make their debut in Milan in Vitelli’s SS 23 collection, which is scheduled to debut on September 23. Not to add the sustainable boots Virón, the Melissa brand’s jelly shoes produced from sugar cane plastic, and the Levi’s upcycling of denim.
25 years of Baguette
Kim Jones and her team opted to display the most varied variations of the Baguette at the Hammerstein Ballroom site to commemorate the 25th anniversary of one of the most recognizable it-bags of all time: miniatures, necklaces, key rings, shoulder bags, and belts. With the help of Tiffany & Co., Marc Jacobs, Porter, and Sarah Jessica Parker (remember the famous robbery scene in which Carrie Bradshaw tried to persuade a thief that her bag was, in fact, a baguette?) the brand’s most iconic item was unquestionably the star of the SS23 resort fashion show. The runway finale honored yet another significant turning point in fashion history in front of a crowded front row that included stars like Jocelyn Wildenstein and Kim Kardashian: After a 15-year sabbatical from the runways and recent disclosures about how cosmetic surgery had changed the appearance of her face, Linda Evangelista made a dramatic return to the catwalks to deafening ovation and a towering cloud of blue chiffon.
The unexpected trio includes Tommy Hilfiger, Andy Warhol, and Richard Quinn.
Andy Warhol, whom Tommy Hilfiger met in New York during the 1980s colorful factory environment, is one of the fashion designer’s greatest influences. Therefore, it is no accident that the designer chose to honor the king of pop art for a spectacular return to his hometown following a few seasons spent traveling. Beatnik-style woolen turtlenecks, short shorts, duffle bags, heavy cardigans, baby dolls wearing boots, and a ton of monograms were on display under the rain, along with a fleeting glimpse of a blonde model sporting an Andy Warhol-like bowl cut. British designer Richard Quinn, handpicked by Tommy himself to contribute his own aesthetic DNA to the brand’s SS23 collection, gave a fetish twist to a riot of patterns and imaginations.
The genderless Black Punk
A trans woman walked the official New York Fashion Week calendar in 2015, according to Pierre Davis, the designer behind the agender brand that was introduced at the time. With a collection of daring, DIY, and deconstructed silhouettes that emphasize an idea of fashion in which lines of gender distinction are lost, No Sesso challenges the conventions of the luxury fashion industry and calls attention to underrepresented communities by “making nonconformity as beautiful and inclusive as possible.”They call it “Black Punk,” a look that is distinguished by its dark overtones, revealing attire, intense make-up, artificial nails, spikey hair, and love of lingerie, such as thongs worn over shorts and a bralette with pearls cascading around the nipples.
The feminism of Elena Velez
Designer Elena Velez’s most recent collection, IN GLASS, which was unveiled in a shuttered factory in Chelsea, is a tribute to women and their bodies. In light of the post-Roe era, the collection shows a “women who are on the point of a nervous breakdown and are connected by pain and dread are a startling representation of female hysteria. She uses the regular dehumanization of the feminine figure as motivation to strengthen herself and find comfort in femininity rather than as a hindrance.” An expression of a vision in a bleak, grunge environment, dramatically cut bodices, raw hemlines, bondage-style tops, a sleeveless column dress made of cotton gauze and wrapped in slick, black latex, and a sticky, flowing white garment.
Clubbing style in Dion Lee
Cutouts, micro-miniskirts, ruched mini-dresses, knee-high boots, and even a black neoprene wetsuit were juxtaposed with lighter-colored clothing to blur the lines between day and night in Dion Lee’s SS23 collection, which was shown in a building right across from the New Yorker Hotel.Dion Lee is a fashion designer that expertly blends nudity, cut-outs, and layering to create shapes that push the boundaries of anatomical accuracy. His concept of a uniform has succeeded in producing formal dress that is cheeky but versatile, even though it borders on the aesthetic imagery of porn chic. His seductive structuralism discovered another narrative element in the experimentalism of materials and the manipulation of forms: padded fabrics pulled from the Motomami aesthetic and more industrial fabrics were contrasted with the monstera leaf motif that climbed onto dresses, tops, boots, and even bags.
Vogue World 2022
Vogue arranged a march through New York’s streets to commemorate its 130th anniversary, which sparked interest in American fashion in general. It all began with a rebirth of Vogue’s magazine archive: visitors and celebrities were welcomed by a newsstand that featured Vogue publications from throughout the world. The fashion presentation was then preceded by a number of athletes, including Serena Williams, who was wearing a floor-length silver Balenciaga gown. The runway featured legendary pieces worn by models, dancers, and celebrities like Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Linda Evangelista, Erykah Badu, and Alton Mason. These other designers’ names included Gucci, Christopher John Rogers, and Maison Margiela. Cheerleaders, a band, and a group of Indian dancers were among the choral acts that added to the general energy and inspired a series of aesthetically breathtaking performances. The intention was to start a general discourse about the fashion industry, and glamour, which is present in all its manifestations and is always based in the visual and narrative images of Vogue, served as the backdrop.