Fashion, much like nature, resists emptiness—it constantly evolves to fill gaps and redefine itself. With Demna’s impending departure from Balenciaga, the industry is left wondering who will take the reins of one of the most enigmatic brands of the past decade. Under Demna’s leadership, Balenciaga became a paradox: a house that simultaneously catered to avant-garde intellectuals and hype-driven consumers. It blurred the lines between high fashion and commercial appeal, challenging conventional ideas of luxury and beauty.
However, change was inevitable. The controversy surrounding the brand’s 2022 ad campaign marked a turning point, prompting scrutiny that had long been overlooked. Critics and consumers alike began to question Balenciaga’s creative direction—was it relying too heavily on logos, recycling ideas, and inflating prices without innovation? The brand remained influential, but it had lost its element of surprise. Against this backdrop, Kering’s leadership shakeup seemed strategic: while Gucci sought a visionary with authority, Balenciaga needed reinvention.
Now that the brand has reclaimed its credibility, it may be time to move away from ironic luxury and toward a more grounded, refined aesthetic. Speculation is swirling around potential successors, with Pieter Mulier and Riccardo Tisci emerging as top contenders. Yet, in the ever-unpredictable world of fashion, could a completely unexpected name be waiting in the wings?
Both contenders bring distinct strengths to the table. Pieter Mulier, for instance, transitioned from being Raf Simons’ trusted collaborator to revitalizing Alaïa when he took the helm in 2021. Under his direction, the brand not only regained relevance but also captured a new generation of fashion enthusiasts. Mulier, like Demna, is an alumnus of the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, and he shares an affinity for bold silhouettes and sculptural draping. However, his approach is more restrained—his eccentricity is tempered by a refined sense of balance and cohesion, making his collections feel both innovative and meticulously crafted.
At Alaïa, Mulier also demonstrated his ability to create commercially successful accessories, such as the widely coveted Teckel bag and ballet flats that inspired countless imitations. If Kering’s leadership aims to steer Balenciaga toward a more polished yet still avant-garde direction, Mulier would be an ideal choice—especially considering the brand’s Haute Couture division, where his precision and craftsmanship could truly shine.
Another highly anticipated contender is Martine Rose, a designer whose influence on Balenciaga during Demna’s early years is well-documented. Her consultancy work helped shape the brand’s identity, and her raw, subversive aesthetic aligns closely with the visual language that Balenciaga has become known for. Rose has built a reputation for reinterpreting classic tailoring through exaggerated proportions and unexpected contrasts, making her a cult favorite, particularly in the UK.
If appointed, she would undoubtedly inject new energy into Balenciaga’s commercial lineup. However, a key question is whether she would be willing—or whether Kering would expect her—to refine her approach to align with the brand’s more elevated ambitions. Her signature style leans heavily into sportswear, oversized silhouettes, and bold graphic prints, resonating strongly with younger consumers. Yet, as Kering seeks to push Balenciaga toward a more sophisticated positioning, this aesthetic might not entirely align with the group’s vision.
Despite this, Rose has already proven her ability to balance underground appeal with mainstream success. Her Nike Shox MR4 collaboration became one of 2024’s most sought-after sneakers, and her designs have found their way onto major cultural moments, including Timothée Chalamet’s viral red-carpet looks and Kendrick Lamar’s Super Bowl outfit. While she may not fit the traditional mold of a luxury creative director, Rose represents a natural evolution of Demna’s legacy—particularly in maintaining Balenciaga’s commercial momentum.
Another intriguing name linked to Balenciaga is John Galliano, a designer whose theatrical brilliance would be particularly suited to the house’s Haute Couture division. As one of fashion’s last true icons, Galliano carries a level of prestige and artistic mastery that would make his appointment a historic moment. His departure from Maison Margiela was accompanied by a cryptic farewell note: “The rumors… Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream. When the time is right, all will be revealed.” This strongly suggests that his career is far from over and that he may already have his next move in mind.
Interestingly, much of Galliano’s recent work at Margiela has reflected elements of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legendary silhouettes—something that has not gone unnoticed by fashion enthusiasts. However, a crucial question remains: could Galliano tap into pop culture and contemporary fashion in the way that Demna did? Balenciaga, under Demna, became as much a cultural phenomenon as it was a luxury brand, and today’s fashion landscape demands a deep engagement with the zeitgeist. While Galliano is undoubtedly a visionary, his strength lies in storytelling and craftsmanship rather than viral marketing or streetwear-inspired appeal.
From a business perspective, the decision to change creative leadership at Balenciaga is both strategic and commercial. Once Kering’s second most significant brand after Gucci, Balenciaga has recently been categorized under the conglomerate’s “Other Houses” segment in financial reports—lumped in with brands like Brioni and Alexander McQueen rather than standing alongside Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta. This suggests that while the brand remains successful, its financial performance is not strong enough to warrant individual recognition. Given the challenges faced with Gucci’s latest creative transition, it is unlikely that Kering will take another gamble on an emerging designer. In today’s fast-paced industry, there is little room for uncertainty—every move must be a calculated one.
Fortunately, Demna is not leaving Balenciaga in crisis; the house remains influential and profitable. But the next creative director will need to be someone who can reinvigorate both the brand’s artistic vision and its commercial impact. Whether Galliano—or any other rumored candidate—can rise to the occasion remains to be seen.
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