From the judgment-laden confines of Portville, where he was born, to the iconic streets of Hollywood, where he found both himself and a universally resonant myth, Rick Owens’ Man Spring Summer 2025 collection portrays this odyssey through a profoundly stirring and powerful showcase.

Owens’ collection navigates the realms of Art Deco opulence, the dichotomy of sin and virtue, and the quest for redemption, intertwining the mythos of the past with the uncertainty of the future. Aptly named “Hollywood,” the collection captures the city’s essence through its staging, performance, and narrative.

The show, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Palais de Tokyo fountain, features a grandiose “art colossal performance” underscored by the amplified Allegretto from Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7, conducted by Christian Thielemann with the Vienna Philharmonic. This setting pays homage to Hollywood’s golden age, evoking the grandeur of Cecil B. DeMille’s epic biblical films like “The Sign of the Cross” (1932) and historical spectacles like “Cleopatra” (1934) starring Claudette Colbert.

Owens’ presentation is a ceremonial tribute to cinema, a myth that transcends class and conveys both emotion and knowledge. The show underscores the importance of solidarity and community amidst the expression of individuality, highlighting the necessity of unity and mutual trust in an increasingly intolerant world.

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The White Ensemble and Golden Crowns

To manifest the diverse communities central to his show, Rick Owens enlisted students and faculty from Paris Fashion Schools. This “Army of Love in White Satin” also featured longtime collaborators like Jakob Jakobsson, who walked in Owens’ second New York show 22 years ago, and Allanah Starr, a prominent activist from the trans communities of New York and Paris. The extensive cast, uniformly dressed in white, included hoods, pants, bermudas, vegetable-tanned leather hooded jackets, and charmeuse garments from a collaboration with Dafne Balatsos’ brand Fina, all crowned with gold.

These processional figures, while reminiscent of a fictional narrative, reflect contemporary life where the pursuit of community does not preclude individual expression. The attire acts as both a call for attention and a statement of belonging, addressing the needs of those who wear them.

Rick Owens reaffirms his prowess in crafting emotionally charged experiences that leave a lasting impact. The depth of emotion in his shows embeds meanings that resurface, especially when confronted by a reality that denies them.