One of the most iconic Daft Punk tracks, “Around the World,” is famous for its repetitive nature, with the phrase “around the world” repeated 144 times. This simplicity and repetition are precisely what contributed to its legendary status. A similar theme was evident in Louis Vuitton’s SS25 show, held yesterday on the rooftop of the Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris. Pharrell Williams, the creative mind behind the collection, revisited the silhouettes from his debut collection, encapsulating the theme “around the world.” The event was set to “Triumphus Cosmos,” a composition by Pharrell himself, and imbued with a spirit of pacifist ecumenism, symbolizing Louis Vuitton’s vision of global unity and harmony.

In today’s climate of multifaceted tensions—between citizens and states, among citizens themselves, and between nations—this optimistic message of unity feels particularly poignant. In 2024, advocating for world peace has moved beyond being a mere beauty pageant platitude to a statement with significant, albeit rhetorical, weight. Louis Vuitton, as a leading brand under the LVMH umbrella, which sponsors the Olympics and maintains close ties with political spheres, embodies institutional influence. While it might seem idealistic to champion peace amidst political turmoil, environmental concerns, and Olympic controversies in Paris, fashion tends to either overlook reality or fully engage with it. Given its stature, Louis Vuitton cannot afford to be cynical or pessimistic.

The collection, echoing the “around the world” theme akin to the Daft Punk song, embraces a similar structured approach. It unfolds like a geometric progression, starting with the intent to reflect the diverse skin tones of people globally. This is manifested through a color palette that transitions from black to lighter shades, ultimately culminating in a series of vibrant, multicolored jackets. The menswear lines are organized by archetypes of modern travelers, representing current menswear trends: formalwear for diplomats, military-inspired clothing for pilots, sportswear for explorers, and workwear for tourists.

The collection masterfully blends macro and micro perspectives on color and texture. From a distance, the outfits appear almost monochromatic, but a closer look reveals intricate details. Buttons are adorned with miniature globes, airplane motifs, pearls, and crystals, recurring throughout the collection. The Monogram Branded relief and the innovative Damoflage pattern (a blend of Damier and camouflage) are prominently featured. Additionally, the collection introduces the Snake-o-Flage pattern, mimicking python skin, and various animal skin-inspired designs. The multicolored LVERS Damier motif brings vibrancy, seen in both jacquard and denim fabrics.

Accessories play a significant role in reinforcing the travel theme, with aviator hats, agent caps, and cowboy hats. Translucent socks in skin tones, leather and velvet gloves, silk ties, bow ties, and decorated scarves add the finishing touches to this international dandyism.

When it comes to handbags, they were a focal point on the runway. Archive pieces like the Alma, Christopher, and Neverfull were reimagined in soft leather with aged VVN finishes. The Danube and Amazon bags made a comeback, enhanced with multi-pocket details. A standout piece was the Keepall, completely encrusted in rhinestones, adorned with metal charms inspired by archive tags. The Speedy P9 received a fresh update in black and faded neon hues, with a new dimension added to the Speedy 30. The LVERS Damier motif decorated canvas bags, while the Silhouette bags in black leather were embossed with luggage tag shapes.

Collaborations with the Parisian artistic collective Air Afrique introduced designs featuring bluish-green tartan and Damier checkers, embellished with planetary logo tags. The collection’s footwear drew inspiration from various traveler archetypes. The LV Agent boot, Diplomat shoe, and Bowling shoe were designed to cater to different traveler styles, including a cowboy boot crafted from exotic leathers. Sporty influences were evident in the LV Footprint Runner and Soccer shoes.

Eyewear also made a statement, with glasses featuring winged frames and mask-style models with colored lenses and crystal details. The Millionaire 1.0 and 4.0 glasses returned, showcasing frames in skin tones and glossy Monogram panels. The jewelry collection included tennis necklaces, colored crystal bracelets and rings, aviation-themed brooches, and globe pendant necklaces, rounding out the accessories with a touch of elegance and thematic consistency.

It’s hard to overlook the show as a testament to Louis Vuitton’s prowess, showcasing not only the exceptional skill of its atelier but also an almost radical benevolence that the brand has embraced since the days of Virgil Abloh. The underlying message is that Louis Vuitton excels not only in quality but also in moral values—if such a notion applies in the fashion industry. Few brands could pull off such a display of confidence and capability. Pharrell’s approach to universalism, likened to an ecclesiastical idea of uniting all people under a common symbol or monogram, may lack subtlety, but his talent in conveying the brand’s essence is undeniable. His ability to orchestrate and harmonize both macro and micro details in a show that transcends a mere fashion presentation to become a comprehensive spectacle is truly impressive.