When Alessandro Michele unveiled his debut Gucci collection in 2015, his mastery of the brand’s ethos was evident, a result of twelve years working under Tom Ford and Frida Giannini.
Michele’s swift transition to Valentino has made waves. Appointed as creative director on March 28, he took just two months to present his vision for the iconic Roman fashion house. Valentino surprised the fashion world on the final day of Milan Menswear Week with an unscheduled lookbook. This comprehensive pre-spring 2025 collection, featuring over 260 images, spans categories from ready-to-wear to accessories, including handbags, shoes, and silk scarves.
More than a teaser, Michele’s collection offers a deep dive into Valentino’s stylistic heritage. Highlights include belted ivory peacoats with V-motifs on pockets and cropped jackets paired with tailored dresses, paying homage to Valentino Garavani’s 1968 white collection. These elegant looks are styled with turban hats and pearls, adding Michele’s cinematic flair. Gender-fluid elements bring modernity to classic silhouettes, with male-presenting models in bell-shaped capes and ruffled turtlenecks, while striking looks like 1970s-style bell-bottom suits are worn by women.
Michele’s Gucci era was known for its eclectic glamour, but at Valentino, he blends opulence with the house’s classic couture elegance.
The quiet, unexpected release of Michele’s first Resort 2025 collection for Valentino provides insight into his aesthetic direction. Originally slated for a grand debut on September 29 in Paris with the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, the early release hints at a new Valentino defined by Michele’s seventies and eighties influences, hippie-chic ruffles, and rich artistic references that cross gender lines.
This collection of 171 styled looks not only honors Valentino’s heritage but also showcases Michele’s unique influence. The question remains: is Alessandro Michele truly back?
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