During the summer, the entire Barbie cast gracefully exited their press tour due to the impending SAG-AFTRA actor’s strike, garnering widespread admiration. Contrastingly, if dressers, interns, and exhausted design team members were to walk out during a show in solidarity with a strike, it might be met with scandal and job loss. The fashion industry’s discussion on workers’ rights often neglects the struggles of underpaid or unpaid members within design teams, unlike the attention given to garment workers in documentaries like “The True Cost.” The recent request for the entire Gucci team to relocate from Rome to Milan with only three months’ notice, as highlighted by 1Granary on Instagram, underscores broader issues in how the fashion industry treats its workforce. This highlights the need for a more comprehensive approach to addressing workers’ rights in the fashion industry.
In the documentary “Dior and I,” highlighting Raf Simons’ debut collection for the revered French Maison, a poignant scene resonates, capturing the voice of the seamstresses. Despite crafting every garment showcased on the glamorous catwalk, they find themselves marginalized, excluded from the spectacle they helped create. This disconnect underscores the often-overlooked plight of those laboring behind the scenes in the fashion industry. Fast forward six years to Giulia Mensitieri’s insightful work, “The Most Beautiful Job in the World,” which delves into the harsh realities faced by fashion industry workers. Mensitieri’s case study unveils a stark truth: little has changed over the years. Seamstresses, still underpaid and undervalued, continue to toil in the shadows of haute couture. Even today, it remains a rarity for a creative director to acknowledge the entire team’s contribution at the conclusion of a show. This narrative sheds light on the persistent challenges faced by garment workers, urging for greater recognition and fair treatment within the fashion industry.
Jonathan, a Paris-based designer, shares insights into his career trajectory within the fashion industry. Having earned his bachelor’s degree in design and interned at prestigious brands under conglomerates, he sheds light on the prevalent challenges faced by low-paid individuals in design teams. Despite legal protections, Jonathan reveals the stigma associated with advocating for normal work hours and a balanced lifestyle, often misconstrued as a lack of dedication. This struggle reflects broader issues within the industry’s work culture. Jonathan’s narrative underscores the delicate balance between professional dedication and personal well-being, raising important questions about job security and replaceability in today’s competitive design landscape.
Alice, a New York City-based designer, echoes Jonathan’s sentiments regarding the pervasive culture of replaceability in the fashion industry. Drawing parallels to her experiences, particularly while working for an LVMH-owned brand, she recounts grueling schedules that demanded 16-hour workdays, seven days a week. Alice emphasizes that this intense regimen was not negotiable; rather, it was imposed without room for discussion. Despite feeling like an “Olympic athlete,” she attributed her compliance to being the youngest member of the team, coupled with a sense of indebtedness for the opportunity. Reflecting on her experience, Alice acknowledges the legal right to refuse such demands but admits the futility of doing so, fearing dismissal and dismissal and being reminded of the implicit agreement upon accepting the job. Her story serves as a stark reminder of the sacrifices demanded within the industry and the challenges of asserting one’s rights in a culture that prioritizes productivity over well-being.
When delving into the history of unionizing within the fashion industry, the narrative often revolves around headlines spotlighting garment workers, influencers advocating for change, and overarching critiques of the industry. Yet, resources documenting this journey are scarce, contributing to the perception that once you’re in, you’ve surrendered your autonomy. Despite the presence of HR departments in big brands, asserting one’s rights can be an uphill battle. Jonathan, speaking from his own experiences, sheds light on the relentless pressure to meet tight deadlines, often at the expense of reasonable working hours. In this culture of disposability, those unwilling to sacrifice their well-being are deemed expendable, leading to unstable working conditions.
As noted by consultant Brenda Weischer on the podcast Throwing Fits, the fashion industry’s turnover rate is alarmingly high, with individuals typically changing jobs every 11 months. This lack of stability is emblematic of creative industries without union protection, leaving workers vulnerable and unprotected. The idea of initiating a designer strike gains traction, challenging the notion that celebrity status should supersede skill and experience in leadership roles. The current environment, where rights are treated as a luxury rather than a fundamental entitlement, perpetuates a toxic cycle of insecurity and mistrust, contributing to poor team dynamics.
Imagine a scenario where fashion workers are afforded greater rights and security. Could this lead to a more inclusive and diverse industry? The prospect is tantalizing, but for now, the notion of a strike remains a distant dream—a bold yet necessary step towards catalyzing meaningful change. In a landscape where disposability reigns supreme, perhaps it’s time to embrace the discomfort of upheaval in pursuit of a more equitable future.
Disclaimer: Please be advised that the names of designers mentioned in this content have been altered for legal purposes and to safeguard their identity.
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