Thom Browne continues to unravel the conventional suit with a distinctive blend of perversity and audacity. For his Fall 2024 show, the haunting verses of Edgar Allan Poe’s “The Raven” provided an eerie backdrop, with actress Carrie Coon delivering a dramatic reading that underscored the dark ambiance. Browne, known for his wit, seamlessly merged Poe’s macabre sensibilities with his own playful approach, resulting in a visually captivating collection.
Despite the overt theatricality, it’s the subtleties that resonate—the artful cinching of a trench coat, transforming it into a structured silhouette with hip padding, or the elongation and subsequent cropping of lapels on a double-breasted jacket. Traditional fabrics like prim tweeds and collegiate striped suitings took on a darker allure with a dip in black paint, and the proclamation of “Nevermore” received the varsity logo treatment, showcasing Browne’s knack for turning anything into coveted merch.
The most compelling moments, however, emerged from the understated pieces. Jackets draped off shoulders, revealing simple black dresses and tapping into the theme of inner darkness. The narrative unfolded with each piece, transforming the runway into a storybook where Browne’s characters came alive.
In the aftermath of the show, a newcomer to Thom Browne described it as a brand one simply wants to be a part of. Browne’s world, often traced back to the origins of a gray suit, now captivates through the impact of his signature uniform. The joy lies not in deciphering the mental gymnastics of his collections but in witnessing the tales unfold. There’s a unique allure to the Thom Browne experience—one that invites curiosity and engagement.
Amidst the acclaim, there exists a charm in encountering those who admit to not fully grasping Thom Browne’s aesthetic. Wearing his designs becomes more than donning a garment; it’s an initiation into a distinct realm that may not resonate with everyone. In a world where fashion often seeks universal appeal, Thom Browne’s exclusivity and the sense of belonging it imparts create a niche that remains both captivating and enigmatic.
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