Exploring Identity, Community, and Glamour Through Runway Spectacle
In the realm of haute couture, there exist not just designers, but true visionaries who transcend the ordinary. Demna Gvasalia, the brilliant creative force behind Balenciaga, unequivocally belongs to this exceptional category. With each new collection he unveils, he doesn’t merely unveil garments; he crafts immersive experiences, and his latest spectacle for the Spring-Summer 2024 season is nothing short of extraordinary. It stands as a homage to the artistry of fashion, where garments metamorphose into deeply personal expressions of identity and belonging. Yet, it transcends even this, serving as a liberated visual chronicle of Demna himself. Beyond mere fashion, this show is a revelation of his inner world. In a remarkable move, he casts his closest ones in the spotlight – his mother inaugurating the show, and his husband, Loïk Gomez, closing it. In between, a diverse ensemble featuring professors from the Antwerp Academy, personal muses, makeup virtuosos, museum curators, the brand’s PR director, and even the esteemed critic Cathy Horyn, among others. But this runway is more than just a showcase of Demna’s signature style applied to outfits for every conceivable occasion, from the opulent red carpet to the aisles of a supermarket. It’s a visual narrative that unfolds, revealing recurring motifs like the train ticket symbolizing the Paris-Geneva route. While some speculate it signifies Demna’s impending departure from the role of creative director, it might as well symbolize the monthly pilgrimage of the Balenciaga team to their design studio in Geneva. Bringing this eclectic mix of friends, family, and colleagues onto the stage, enveloped by dramatic crimson curtains, Demna weaves his own story. He also underscores that the very essence of Balenciaga’s identity is an amalgamation of the unique individuals within its inner circle. Yet, he adds an ethereal dimension by summoning his muses, and even the likes of
Amanda Lepore and Kim Kardashian (with her image added post-show), to grace his evening gowns. In doing so, he evokes his trademark satirical, enigmatic, and distorted vision of glamour and stardom.
And, as always, the auditory backdrop is meticulously orchestrated, this time by the maestro himself, Loïk Gomez. In the background, we hear the syncopated voice of Isabelle Huppert, reciting an ancient tailoring manual with palpable excitement, infusing an air of dreams into the entire experience. Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga SS24 show is not just fashion; it’s a symphony of identity, creativity, and storytelling, where garments transcend their material form to become threads in the rich tapestry of human expression.
Inaugurating the runway with an electrifying statement, Demna Gvasalia’s SS24 collection unveils Ella, his beloved mother, donning a jacket that defies conventional fashion norms. This remarkable piece is a harmonious fusion of three distinct vintage jackets, meticulously deconstructed and ingeniously reassembled to conjure the illusion of clothes haphazardly piled, yet impeccably wearable. It’s an artful blend of chaos and order, a sartorial masterpiece.
The exploration of unconventional jackets and coats takes center stage, with an oversized series that verges on the cartoonish, reminiscent of the exaggerated ’80s power shoulder look (picture The Babadook’s iconic silhouette minus the top hat) but devoid of shoulder pads or external supports. In both instances, Demna’s signature motifs resurface: the layering and doubling of garments, along with the artful use of trompe-l’œil techniques.
Another captivating chapter in Demna’s distinctive lexicon is the concept of “deceptive normcore.” Here, jogging suits, supermarket plastic bags, drawstring pants, robes, and track jackets come alive in unexpected ways. They transcend their mundane origins, transforming into fashion statements that challenge the status quo. Even travel bags are artistically “folded,” enhancing their disheveled appearance and elevating them to the realm of high-fashion chaos.
Demna Gvasalia’s SS24 collection defies convention, blurring the lines between art and apparel, and inviting us to reconsider the ordinary in an extraordinary light.
Here, amidst the realm of accessory surprises, we find house keys, gracefully metamorphosed into ornate pendants, adorning distressed bags reminiscent of Jane Birkin’s timeless style. They even lend their unique charm to hair elastics, weaving everyday essentials into the tapestry of fashion. Passports, typically the guardians of travel identity, have undergone a stunning transformation into functional wallets, blending form and function seamlessly.
Yet, what truly captivates the imagination is the art of upcycling that transcends the boundaries of recomposed jackets. This innovative spirit extends its creative embrace to evening gowns, resulting in a breathtaking wedding dress, born from the harmonious fusion of seven distinct bridal masterpieces. A biker jacket, akin to a mosaic of individuality, proudly displays its diverse panels, speaking volumes about the ethos of deconstruction and reconstruction, a signature of the Margiela legacy.
Adding to the allure, leather items emerge from the crucible of invention, crafted from an exclusive material coined by the brand—LUNAFORMTM—forged from the alchemy of fermented nanocellulose. Amidst this innovative tapestry, a delightful nod to Demna’s iconic designs emerges, as flesh-toned tops bear tattoos paying homage to the Tattoo Print Shirt from Vetements’ SS19 collection, weaving together the threads of fashion history in a mesmerizing display.
As we delve into Demna’s latest collection, it’s as though we’re embarking on a vivid journey through the cherished landscapes of his creative mind. With each piece, he revisits his own design philosophy and distinctive language, rekindling the spark of enthusiasm that seemed to momentarily dim during his minimalist hiatus, away from the relentless media spotlight.
This resurgence, or rather, the resounding reaffirmation of his poetic and artistic voice, was not only foretold by Cathy Horyn’s illuminating video interview with the designer at the Triennale in Milan two weeks ago, but it also serves as a poignant reminder of the critical role of a structured and authentic creative voice in an industry increasingly dominated by marketing agendas.
At first glance, one might perceive the collection as quintessentially “Demna,” yet beneath the surface, it beckons us to ponder the perennial dilemma of designers caught between the currents of continuity and creative fatigue. Demna, in this regard, emerges as a masterful magician, skillfully treading the fine line between conceptual brilliance and commercial innovation. He stands at the crossroads of artistic genius and persuasive salesman—a portrait that lucidly mirrors the multifaceted essence of contemporary fashion.
In the midst of the recent fashion month, the distinction between designer fashion and its industrial counterpart became ever clearer. Designer fashion, unlike its industrially produced counterpart, possesses a unique charm—an ability to evoke genuine enthusiasm and create captivating moments. Demna not only reminded us of this transformative “moment” but reclaimed it, asserting that it is wholly his own.
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