Chiffon, satin, and tailoring that stand the test throughout the years
One of the foremost proponents of modernist architecture, which favored the use of steel, glass, and concrete and rejected ornamentation, Mies van der Rohe built the Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin, where Saint Laurent’s most recent show was held yesterday. For this architectural movement, form had to minimalistically follow function. Anthony Vaccarello has sworn to adhere to this concept for the French brand’s most recent SS24 collection. This architecture was designed to endure the test of time and the passing of styles because of its utmost simplicity and lightness. The men’s and women’s codes were rearranged in this collection, which continued the direction established in earlier seasons and established the brand’s elongated, strictly monochromatic silhouette. Without mentioning the glasses, the accessories were missing because the show appeared to want to avoid any kind of diversion and hammer home to the viewers, look after look, a straightforward silhouette that, due to its elegant simplicity and restrained clarity, can only become ingrained in the mind through constant repetition and subtle variation. In a nutshell, the concept is obvious and the execution is perfect.
The new Saint Laurent man’s uniform consists of black boots, very long legs covered in impeccable-cut pants, flowing satin tops and shirts, and aviator glasses that resemble something from a Sisters of Mercy music video. Actually, we should say Saint Laurent “boy” because many of these looks, with the exception of the tuxedos and 80s power suits, are made to fit ephebic bodies with flawless skin and toned triceps.
However, it’s interesting to see how Vaccarello broke down Saint Laurent’s 1980s codes, which were incredibly dramatic and majestic but frequently also bloated, pompous, and way too stuffy. Vaccarello, however, managed to preserve their spirit and appeal. Ironically, Vaccarello’s conception of luxurious minimalism has its roots in the period of the brand’s history when it was at its most lavish and grandiose, just before it fell apart in the early 1990s. A vision of clean, tight presentation and outfits in which the allure of a single element (the hanging, the feeling of the materials) could move purely, without the interference of overloaded styling, was conceived by the creative director, which was reflected as much in the looks as it was in the location. This era of the brand is now iconic, but at the time it was deeply unstable. We do, however, find elements of a sensual and much more wearable minimalism beyond the backless tops, sheer chiffons, trainers, and satin tank tops low-cut to the navel. We can claim that the most eye-catching outfit of the performance is a square, thick-necked white satin T-shirt tucked into a pair of high-waisted jeans with a thick buckled belt and the standard boots. This may go against popular opinion. It is a look that demonstrates how cut and materials can endlessly sublimate an incredibly portable ensemble – a design that is both unmistakably luxurious and profoundly everyday, with Vaccarello’s vision being compressed and narrowed and slick in the same time.. Perhaps the creative director could focus on elevating a solid everyday wardrobe offer through codes that have never been more clearly defined, strong, and precise, pushing the brand’s menswear line in this direction while pushing more novel eveningwear to the outskirts.
curlycurlworld: Get Twisted with CurlyCurl: The Latest in Curls, Coils, and Confidence! 